Make your adjustments and watch the derailleur move. When it is adjusted correctly, the chain will not click or skip in this position. Using the bolt on the rear of the rear derailleur, you need to adjust the gap between the top pulley of the derailleur and the bottom of the cassette on both the high and low end. Make this adjustment by pushing the rear derailleur to the largest cog by hand. Adjust against the largest cog and double check on the smallest.
In the Shimano instructions, they recommend you get the pulley as close to the cassette as you can. Be sure to check the distance from the cog on all points of the cassette as shown.
After you have the rear derailleur on your mountain bike installed and initial adjustments completed, it is time to install the shifting cable and fine tune your shifting. At this point, you mountain bike should be shifting pretty well with maybe a little delay or clicking between gears.
Once you have everything installed correctly, it is time to fine tune the shifting on your rear derailleur. The barrel adjusters found on your shifting pods tighten and loosen your shifting cable and bring it to near perfect adjustment. Shimano SIS rear derailleurs also have a secondary barrel adjuster on the rear of the derailleur.
While spinning the cranks forward while the mountain bike is in the stand, click through your gears to see if you have any delays in shifting or jumping. Typically, you will have to tighten the cable tension 1 or 2 clicks to get things functioning properly.
Turning the barrel adjusters counter clockwise will get you this affect. Only move the adjusters one click at a time during the fine tuning process. We are done right? No…not quite yet. Unfortunately, most bikes shift differently in the stand than they do under load. Chainline is the distance from the centerline of the frame to the middle chainring, Different model cranks require a different axle length for a given chainline, so the challenge is finding the crank and bottom bracket specifications and matching them up.
It's often easier to replace both the crank and bottom bracket as you can select a pair that give the correct chainline. Shimano provides an extensive archive of specifications. I found the FC-TX70 in the document. It says the FC-TX80 provides a This is the only option given so we can assume your bike has a Looking at the current crank specifications and taking the FC-TY crank for example again, use search to find the specs for that crank model , that crank provides You can obviously go through the same process with the other current Shimano cranks, figure out which ones will replace the TX70 directly or will require a new BB.
Sign up to join this community. The best answers are voted up and rise to the top. Stack Overflow for Teams — Collaborate and share knowledge with a private group. Create a free Team What is Teams? Learn more. Ask Question. Asked 2 years, 5 months ago. Active 2 years, 5 months ago. Viewed 1k times. Would someone be able to help? Pull the gear cable and feed it through the grove on your rear derailleur.
Please note that not all models have the same cable clamping style, check on the Shimano website to be sure or try to look for the grove. The cable tension is only done by hand, you don't need to pull it with pliers or pull it with a wrench, just hold the end of the cable with one hand and use the other hand to tighten down the clamping bolt with an Allen key. You can also use a torque wrench to tighten the bolt down to about 6Nm.
Step 4: Once your gear cable is connected, shift your derailleur to the largest sprocket. If your derailleur is sitting at the second largest sprocket but you can't shift your gears any further, adjust the barrel adjuster by increasing the cable tension, this will move the guide pulley to the largest sprocket.
Turning the screw clockwise will move the pulley outwards away from the wheel spokes and turning the screw anti-clockwise will move the pulley inwards towards the wheel spokes. Line up the pulley guide just below the largest sprocket. Step 5: Adjust the B-tension screw, B-tension screw adjusts the guide pulley up and down, bringing it closer or away from the cassette.
Shift to the smallest chain-ring and the largest sprocket on your cassette. Turning the B-tension screw clockwise will move the guide pulley away from the sprocket and turning the screw anti-clockwise will move the guide pulley closer to the sprocket. Turn the B-tension screw just enough so that the pulley guide is as close to the largest sprocket as possible but not scraping or jamming the chain as you pedal forwards and backwards.
Next, shift your gears to the largest chain-ring and the smallest sprocket on your cassette. Repeat the same screw adjustments, adjust the B-tension screw so the the chain does not jam or scrape the sprocket when you pedal forwards or backwards. Step 6: Indexing of gears.
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